The concept’s success only seems to be picking up more pace, but what is it that fuels this operation?
Nestled in an unassuming corner of Alserkal Avenue – Dubai’s thriving arts and cultural district in the industrial Al Quoz area – a modest restaurant specialising in one very particular Asian cuisine has been quietly revolutionising the city’s dining scene.
Kokoro Handroll Bar first opened its doors in early 2024 as Dubai’s inaugural handroll sushi bar. Founded by Tamer Elkhayat and Faisal Yabroudi (the minds behind popular UAE concepts like PINZA!), Kokoro is helmed by two passionate chefs: Daniel Lee and Patrick Pham. The duo originally launched Kokoro in Houston, Texas in 2019, building their concept around sushi as edible art within an intimate space that fosters genuine connection between chefs and diners.
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The restaurant’s UAE outlet, Kokoro Dubai, is expressly designed to facilitate this. With seating for just 45 guests at a time – including counter stools offering a front-row view of the chefs’ craftsmanship – every element fosters intimacy. Note that the establishment operates on a strictly first-come, first-served basis (reservations aren’t accepted), so do arrive early to secure your spot; queues frequently extend beyond the doorway.
Observing the chefs at work proves utterly mesmerising: the razor-sharp precision of slicing sashimi-grade fish into translucent slivers, the painterly application of wasabi atop nigiri with an artist’s finesse. It’s an immersive experience akin to being initiated into a hypnotic realm – shared equally with old friends and newfound companions alike, all bonded momentarily as keepers of the same exquisite culinary secret.
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The restaurant’s community-driven approach sets it apart in bustling Dubai, rapidly becoming a popular dining spot. With loyal fans frequently returning, its second outlet at The Square by NAS, featuring just 23 seats, quickly gained attention. Owner Elkhayat attributes the restaurant’s success to this dedicated crowd, nurtured through genuine engagement efforts. The “Kokoro Addicts” Instagram Broadcast Channel fosters a sense of exclusivity and connection among followers. Elkhayat emphasises that the focus is on real customers rather than influencers, reinforcing the importance of authentic loyalty and word-of-mouth marketing for the brand.
“We take great pride in honouring our customers, and we’re not afraid to ask them what they think about us, because I think we’ve built a genuine relationship with them,” he adds. “We – Faisal and myself – are at Kokoro every day. We’re talking to the customer, we’re getting to know them, we’re serving them food. I see what they like, and I start to get to know them.”
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Since opening, the restaurant has served over 150,000 customers and half a million hand rolls. But for them, it was never about numbers – one of their chief goals from inception was introducing a truly original concept to the market.
“Innovation means examining existing practices and introducing fresh approaches,” Elkhayat notes. The reward comes in changing perceptions: “It’s incredibly fulfilling to earn the trust of customers who previously avoided raw fish, then see them return to Kokero regularly.”
Elkhayat describes running Kokoro as a journey balancing exclusivity with approachability – a challenging endeavour. They’ve cultivated a unique community spirit within the restaurant’s casual, walk-in-only framework (no bookings), creating something paradoxically exclusive yet welcoming. Loyal customers enjoy special recognition and actively shape the restaurant’s evolution through initiatives like their Instagram broadcast channel, where regulars are consulted and engaged.
This philosophy reflects a broader post-pandemic shift towards authentic connection and culinary storytelling. In an increasingly competitive market, Kokoro carves its niche by prioritising these human elements, making community not just part of their brand, but the very essence of the experience they serve.
Image credit: @kokoro.dxb on Instagram
Eva is a journalist and editor who has been writing about travel, food, and well-being for 20 years. Her words have won awards and been featured in a wide range of leading publications across various corners of the globe, and she lives for great storytelling from the plate to the plane and beyond.
