The chef dishes on what makes a true farm-to-table experience in the UAE
David Lagonell has seen it all.
The well-worn, well-travelled chef has worked in kitchens around the world, alongside some of the best and biggest names in the glittering world of the culinary arts; his latest stop in this journey is Dubai, and his most recent project is one to contend with – creating an authentic farm-to-table experience from the dunes of the UAE.
How does one go about approaching agriculture in a region where historically, agriculture was but an idea? The oldest populations of the UAE lived off seafood and cattle they reared, using the meat and dairy to complete their cuisine, but the world is advancing, and advancing fast which means modern technologies allow for greener pastures to appear in harsh climates like that of ours.
We sat down with the brains behind the menu at Of The Earth, a farm-to-table concept that champions ingredients grown on UAE soil while offering a calm, design-forward space that encourages visitors to linger, to understand what it really takes to accomplish this design.
Take us through your culinary career before Dubai – what are some of the highlights?
I started my career back in London at Gordon Ramsay’s Boxwood Cafe – that’s after finishing my culinary degree at Westminster Kingsway College. I’ve been very lucky to have worked for giants in the industry like Yotam Ottolenghi and Francis Mailmann. Among my career highlights was winning the best burger in London in 2018 with time out, and then being awarded a prestigious place on the 101 Best Steak restaurant in the world consecutively 2023/24, in the company of so many industry icons. My career has taken me all over the world, working with some of the most creative and talented chefs, however as it evolved I found my true passion, open fire cooking. I have devised and implemented several concepts across multiple divisions, restaurants, events, festivals and exhibitions. My love of meat and the passion to try and keep evolving concepts, recipes and flavours brought me to Dubai.
How did you approach creating the menu for Of The Earth, given that the focus was on using local produce?
I am familiar with new concept menu design but believe the ‘secret’ to any good menu is staying true to the ingredients. My approach was to ensure that the ingredients and flavour combinations were at the centre of the menu, minimum intervention, simple techniques and a good understanding of the seasons and what the region has to offer continues to be the key to unlock the wonderful potential the UAE has.
What is the local agricultural scene of the UAE like? There are some misconceptions about farming in the UAE, or lack thereof, but what are the ground realities?
The harsh climate makes this a challenge, however the local agricultural scene is rapidly growing, technology driven and exceptionally innovative. Traditional farming is a challenge but investment in hydroponics has been a game changer. I also work closely with a company called Fresh On Table, they source and deliver a wide range of local ingredients, being protein, dairy, fruit, vegetables and dry store, they are in touch with literally dozens of farms and producers across country to ensure we get the best possible products at an affordable rate.
How would you define the cuisine of Of The Earth? Is highlighting local produce the cuisine itself?
Simple recipes executed well and no over complicating dishes. We use the ingredients available with every harvest using the best the season has to offer. Dishes celebrate one or two hero ingredients incorporating the recognisable Middle Eastern flavours, and my international experience to present the dishes in a new way with a fresh outlook.
What are some of the highlights on the menu and why did you add them? How are you incorporating local produce in the dishes?
The bread is a definite highlight, freshly made for every single order, the feedback has been fantastic. The multiseed waffles, sweet potato pancakes and zaatar parathas are all made to order, The crispy sticky rice and tenderloin with home made daqoos has also been well received. The chickpea and local tomato salad with romesco sauce is also a popular dish, for this one I use the pickled preserved lemon made by the owner’s aunt!
What has the experience of traversing the local farming scene been like? What were some of the highlights?
I don’t feel I have done anywhere near enough yet, there’s so much to see, I have been to several markets and farms and for this I have to personally thank Mahmoud Al Zayyat from Al Zayyat trading, another champion of local ingredients. This man’s knowledge of the local and regional landscape is unparalleled, it helps that he himself is a chef so he understands better than anyone how to plan ahead and move with the seasons. You simply can’t force good produce – nature is ready when it is, so we must be ready to keep the menu interesting, dynamic and honest and that’s the best way to describe what we do here at OTE.
Image credit: Supplied
Deeply passionate about food, culture and community, Manaal loves telling extraordinary stories of ordinary people. Besides sniffing out a tale to tell, her favourite things to do include binging true crime documentaries, chasing cats on the streets and curating a good outfit.
