A reflection of roots
Chef Akmal Anuar is retracing his lost Hadrami roots through Malay flavours in a one-night only culinary journey at Haurmmanis, taking place this Friday 28 November. Titled ‘Bin Yahya – Probable Roots’, the exclusive experience will trace a part of his lineage he continues to discover, a fusion of his Hadrami ancestry with his Malay one – two cultures that shaped his identity, but as of yet remained disconnected.
The evening’s dishes draw from Chef Akmal’s family stories and the flavours of both regions. Think a comforting maraq of lamb broth, spices, shrimp wonton and trotters; a reinterpreted bamia with crisp okra, harissa and ghee; fahsa simmered with meat, chillis and cumin; malawah with roti sardin folded with sardines, onions and calamansi; and a mandi of lamb shank with bukhari rice and raisins. Dessert includes a spiced kek lapis rempah served with sidr honey ice cream – a delicious fusion of Yemeni honey, a staple of the region, with festive Malay desserts.
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Chef Akmal shared in an Instagram post:
“From my mother’s side, our family carries Hadrami ancestry — descendants of travellers and scholars who journeyed from the valleys of Hadhramaut to the shores of Southeast Asia.
Our family name, Al Yahya, echoes those origins, even if the full story has faded with time.
I grew up without clear recollection of how this lineage reached Malaysia. Like many Hadrami families across the region, pieces of the past were softened by migration, marriage, and the passing of generations. What remains today are fragments — names, hints, stories told in passing — enough to suggest a heritage, but not enough to draw the full map.
And so, these are my probable roots:
A lineage carried by the ocean winds, shaped by movement, memory, and the quiet inheritance of those who came before us.”
Image credit: Supplied
Deeply passionate about food, culture and community, Manaal loves telling extraordinary stories of ordinary people. Besides sniffing out a tale to tell, her favourite things to do include binging true crime documentaries, chasing cats on the streets and curating a good outfit.
